SAMURAI will probably be the most ecological clothing collection in the world. It is made from post consumer waste (second hand, used jeans) which is the most difficult and ecological way to produce eco fashion for a commercial clothing collection. The look is nordic contemporary and the clothes are sewn entirely in Helsinki.
The founder of Remake EcoDesign atelier Paula Malleus is also the designer of her own line of upcycled casual wear and eco fashion titled MEM. All of the pieces in the collection are made out of post consumer waste i.e. second hand clothes, which means that instead of wasting natural resources, manufacturing these garments actually saves them.
Samurai collection, which is inspired by Japanese samurai armor, focuses on strong shapes and silhouettes paired with a calculated use of layering. Entirely built on denim in a variety of washes and hues or printed with a graphic geometric print, the collection contains dresses, skirts, trousers and tops for everyday use as well as more showy garments, like for instance the evening gown made entirely of denim.
Besides her craftsmanship and tailoring, what sets Paula Malleus apart from her colleagues in eco fashion is that she uses only post consumer waste as the raw material of her collections. It is the most difficult and ecological way to produce eco fashion for a commercial clothing collection. Most eco fashion designers use so called virgin materials in their collections, like bamboo viscose or organic cotton. Even though these materials and fibers might be produced in an environmentally friendly and sustainable matter, they still require tons of new natural resources to be made.
Using old clothes as the main material, the Samurai garments have negative MIPS numbers. It means that it saves natural resources, rather than consumes them. Material input per unit of service (MIPS) measures the eco-efficiency of a product or service by taking into account all the materials and resources needed to manufacture it (water, soil, air, minerals). What is essential to calculating MIPS for a product is using different material factors, based on whether the raw materials used are renewable or not.
The impact is significant. For comparison, a traditionally manufactured new pair of jeans takes almost 10 000 liters of fresh water to produce, which is the equivalent of the water one person drinks in 10 years. This is why Paula does not want to use virgin materials in her collections. We have spent too much on them already. Therefore using post consumer waste as the collection’s main material makes these clothes-to-clothes the most ecological way to consume new in fashion.
All of MEM clothes are manufactures and sewn in Helsinki Finland at Remake atelier from locally sourced materials. It is truly responsible fashion.